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OP-ED: In Italy, in oyster bars and in all organizations, culture rules

By: Karen Natzel//July 25, 2017//

OP-ED: In Italy, in oyster bars and in all organizations, culture rules

Karen Natzel//July 25, 2017//

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Karen Natzel

Walking the streets of Rome, Cinque Terre and Florence inspired new thinking for me about what’s important in life. These cities exude culture – art, history, architecture, language, customs, style, approaches to eating and imbibing, working, public spaces – life! In Vernazza we rented kayaks from a local named Nico. When I asked why we don’t pay the rental rate or a deposit or sign a waiver before embarking on our adventure, Nico replied, “In Italy, we love life more than money.”

While visiting these remarkable places, I felt an invitation to slow down, soak up the atmosphere, savor the experience and connect with the local characters. Is daily gelato and wine an overindulgence? The culture of the city served as a kind of muse, simultaneously igniting and satiating the desires of my inner hedonist and intrepid explorer.

My recent exploration of Europe also struck a chord professionally. If the premise of my work is “culture drives performance,” then what is it about Italy’s culture that I found so provocative? Was it simply because I was on vacation and finally relaxed? I vowed that when I returned to Portland I would figure out how to sustain that vibe – both personally and professionally.

One evening I set out on my bike to play tourist in my hometown. I rode down side streets and kept a vigilant eye for an outdoor café. On the corner of Northeast 24th and Sandy I spotted a sandwich board that read, “Oyster Bar.” It turns out it is a collection of gourmet offerings – a sustainable market of produce, pasta, fish, meat, condiments, wine, beer, espresso, cheese, a deli, and a bakery. And, it’s European-inspired. Perfect.

I found my way to the Flying Fish Company oyster bar. The knowledgeable bartender patiently answered my myriad of questions, poured me an IPA and indicated he would bring the oysters to my table outside. I found a great people-watching table and pulled out my laptop to write this article. I didn’t know at that moment that the article would include this experience.

As the bartender delivered my shucked oysters on a half shell he spoke about why he thought I might like the selection based on my earlier inquiry – he was actually anticipating my experience while he was preparing my meal. I then asked what else was on the menu. After his mouthwatering description, I ordered the house-made beet-cured salmon. I was transported back to Europe, leisurely enjoying simple food made elegantly and with passion, care and respect. And, as in Europe, no check came. I smiled at the thought of how pleasant it was not to be rushed out for the sake of turning a table.

When I was ready to depart I walked back inside the oyster bar. The bartender was apparently in the kitchen, so a man named Justin stepped up. I had no bill. He simply asked me what I had. Then he asked with total sincerity what I thought of the salmon. It was a new preparation and he wanted my feedback. Soon we were talking about all facets of the business. Justin explained that he was an employee of Flying Fish and that he had a background in biology. He provided a perfect analogy between biology and business. Healthy ecosystems are diverse and interdependent. Healthy organizations require a collaborative team; each contributing their unique, natural strengths. The workings of nature are not unlike those of an organization.

Clearly Justin cared about his work and was connected to the vision; he was empowered to take initiative and encouraged to be creative. When Justin discovered that my questions were more than idle curiosity, he suggested I speak to the owner – aka the “Chief Fishmonger.” En route to get the owner I overheard playful banter exchanged among the staff.

Justin returned with the bartender. At first I was confused. Then I realized the owner, Lyf Gildersleeve, wears many hats! I explained to Lyf my work as a business therapist and my intrigue for what seemed like a robust, genuine and aligned culture.

Flying Fish has been around as a locally-owned family business for nearly 40 years. Despite this, it still has the flavor of a startup. Lyf is a bit of a renaissance businessman – a combination of entrepreneur, connoisseur, leader and bartender. An hour prior I was inquiring about oysters; now I wanted to know what made this man – and this business – tick.

Lyf explained that he believes in the grassroots of humanity. He believes in the necessity of inspiration, of creativity, of honoring tradition and the freedom to experiment and change. And, as any business owner knows firsthand, there’s also the woes of cash flow, capital investments, regulations and staffing. These challenges he takes in stride, focusing instead on his purpose.

What impressed me most perhaps was that Lyf seemed to intuitively understand how to cultivate the kind of culture that rules. He has no desire or capacity for micromanaging, so he needs team members who are self-motivated and self-disciplined. He doesn’t tolerate tension or animosity as they are distractions to the cause. He believes in removing boundaries that might be impediments to his team’s ability to contribute and thrive.

When I asked what drove his philosophy, he declared without hesitation, “Don’t waste a day.” I think that captures a business’ need for a clarity of purpose, a focus on efficiencies, a healthy sense of urgency with a bias toward action, and a reverence for staying hungry. Carpe diem! Now, may I have some more of those oysters please?

Karen Natzel is a business therapist who helps leaders create healthy, vibrant and high-performing organizations. Contact her at 503-806-4361 or [email protected].



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